Wood cheeks for your MiniBrute
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Unmounting the plastic cheeks
Put your MiniBrute upside-down on a soft surface in order to avoid strain on the potentiometers and keys.
Find, unscrew and put in a spare box : the twelve screws shown by the red arrows in the photo below. It is not necessary to unscrew the four screws on the front.

Gently remove the plate et tilt backward the plate with the keybed. Make sure that you don't stress the connection ribbons. Slide the font plate underneath the potentiometers such that the back of the keys of the keybed come in contact with the rear plate of the MiniBrute as shown in the photo below.

Locate the four screws that secure the plastic cheek to the chassis (red arrows in the photo below).
Remove and spare them, then release the plastic cheek from the chassis. Do the same for the other plastic cheek.

Once freed it can be seen that the plastic flank is made of two components: the exernal cheek itself and a fixation plate. These are maintained together by ten screws.

The plastic cheeks must disasembled to be used as a template for the cutting of the wood pieces. Therefore remove the ten screws and spare them in a box, then separate the cheek from the plate.

Cutting out the wood cheeks

I chose to use birchwood for the cheeks firstly because I like the grain or texture of birchwood, and on second hand it can be crafted quite easily with simple usual tools such as a handsaw to cut-out the pieces, and a wood rasp to shape the pieces and make chamfers.
I used a 20mm (0.787 inch) thick birch board originally sold to be used as shelf board.

Below the result of the cut wood piece obtained with the handsaw. The result is quite good indeed.

After shaping the round corners, chamfers and then polishing, the two birchwood cheeks are nearly ready.

Now comes the tricky part, a long rebate (275mmx9mmx3mm) must be etched on the inner edge of the basis of  the cheeks. If you have a router or a shaping machine. Otherwise it can be etched with a chisel but it is quite time consuming (that's what I did by the way ;-) ).

One of cheek with the rebate, and the second waiting to be etched...

Mounting the wood cheeks

In order to secure the wood cheeks I used two L-shape aluminium (15mmx10mmx1.5mm) sold by the meter. I cut two pieces of 17.4 m.

After drilling the holes for the fixation to the chassis (long side of the L) and those for the fixation to the cheek (short side of the L). The piece that is to be fixed in the left cheek must be cut into two shorter pieces in order to leave space (yellow arrows) for the potentiometer of the Pitch Bend wheel. Further more a 2mm band (red arrows) must be filed away to make room for the fixation plate of the wheels.

Now a quick assembly of all the parts to check that all is ok and fits.

Well ut seems I did a good work and no adjustment is required. It is time give a nice finish to the wood parts...

Oiling and waxing and assembling the wood cheeks

To finish the cheeks I used liquid wax with a medium oak tint. After spreading a first layer, letting dry, polishing with a soft cloth, then adding a second layer, drying and polishing the woodcheeks we may proceed to the re-assembly. The photo below shows the two waxed wood cheeks. The small piece of raw birchwood on top of this photo makes it possible to see the effect of the waxing.

Now we can mount the cheeck to the chassis using the l brackets and the 8 fixation screws.

This view shows the details of mounting of the left cheek et illustrates how the two pices of L bracket come on the sides of the potentiometer of the Pitch Bend wheel.

Now it is time to install the keybed and the bottom plate and secure it with its 12 screws.

There we are !

Two views of the MiniBrute back in the studio...